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JANUARY: Young plants taken as cuttings during June and July will require occasional weak liquid feeding, potting on as the roots start to fill pots, and nipping further into shape. Care must be taken not to over-water during these short growing days. Tips that are removed can be used for cutting material to increase stock.
FEBRUARY: Cuttings rooted early last month can be potted into smaller pots. After a week or two, give them their first stop to encourage the desired bushy growth. Composts should be kept just moist until the roots start to fill the pots. Then more water can be given.
MARCH: Fuchsia cuttings that are required for standards should be staked at an early stage and the stems tied in. All side shoots can be removed as they appear. Flowering is to be discouraged during the first season, so it is important that the root is not allowed to get pot-bound as this encourages flowering.
APRIL: Prune over-wintered, dormant plants, removing dead and crossing branches. Spray stems and water roots. When new growth appears, some compost can be teased from the roots and the plant re-potted into a smaller pot. This enables new compost to be introduced later.
MAY: Fuchsias will be growing strongly this month. Cuttings and new stock can be acquired. Spray against pests. Feed plants and pinch out growing tips for bushy growth. Greenhouses need some form of shading this month and plants should be turned regularly to promote even growth. Take precautions against any late frosts.
JUNE: Plant fuchsias out-of-doors from second week onwards. Keep them well-watered and fed. Plant in groups of three, five or seven for maximum impact. Cuttings for next year’s show or specimen plants can be taken this month.
JULY: Ventilate the greenhouse as much as possible or stand pots out-of-doors during the daytime. Dappled sunshine is most suitable. Take more cuttings for next year’s plants and keep them nipped and flowerless. Spray and feed regularly. Visit shows and nurseries and take notes of any new varieties you may wish to try yourself.
AUGUST: Fuchsias planted in the garden need plenty of water and will benefit from a mulch around the roots to prevent moisture loss and overheating. Deadhead regularly and continue to spray against pests.
SEPTEMBER: Allow standards to ripen out of doors so that they can over-winter in a semi-dormant state. Less feed is required at this time of year. Pests are at their worst, so keep up the spraying programme.
OCTOBER: Try to keep the greenhouse as dry as possible as this discourages diseases such as Botritis. Pinch next year’s plants into shape rather than at every joint. Very little feed is required but pests and fungal diseases need to be watched.
NOVEMBER: After the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch. Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases. fter the first frosts, the fuchsias left in the garden can have their crowns protected by a mulch. Top growth can be tidied by cutting back by up to a third and left for the winter. In the greenhouse give as much ventilation as possible on warmer days. Smokes rather than sprays should be used to control pests and diseases.
DECEMBER: Remove all fallen leaves from the plants to prevent the spread of fungal diseases. Old plants that are going to be kept indoors require frost-free conditions. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from pot tops, reduce growth by about a third and keep the compost just moist. Further pruning will be done in the spring.
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Cultivation Year |
